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Wall Tent Shop
3071 West Twin Road
Moscow Idaho 83843
208-882-1791
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The four basic types of tent frames:

1. Internal frame. Aluminum tent frames or galvanized steel canvas tent frames are normally used by individuals tent camping near a road. However, lightweight aluminum tent frames can be easily packed in on horses. Frames listed below.
   1. Angle Kits. You can easily make your own canvas tent frame by purchasing 1" electrical conduit from local hardware stores. Purchasing an angle kit and 1" conduit is much cheaper than purchasing and shipping a complete tent frame. We have both fixed and adjustable angle kits available.
   2. Click how to measure your current tent to provide required tent measurements ordering a angle kit or internal frame.
   3. Click angle kit instructions to make your own tent frame.
2. A Frame. Galvanized steel, two models, internal or external. Can be used near a road or packing in on horses.
   1. Internal A Frame, prices and information
   2. External A frame prices and information.
3. Elk Frame. Galvanized steel. Elk frame designed specifically for the Hunter Tent, NOT AVAILABLE for other tent models. Used near a road or packing in. Click Hunter tents to view Elk Frame and scroll to bottom of page.
4. Lodgepole Frame. Normally used by reeanctors or individuals who pack in on horses and make their own frame from lodgepoles. Click lodgepole frame to view picture.

I live in a tent 4-6 weeks a year. A tent internal frame is the quickest and easiest frame to assemble. Most importantly, internal wall tent frame provides the most support for your tent roof. Except when snowing heavily or heavy winds, I don’t install guy ropes, except to corners, to eaves because the internal wall tent frame provides so much more support. Not installing guy ropes and tensioners will significantly reduces set up time. During high winds you must have all ropes and stakes set up, I tie my ropes to trees, stumps, rocks etc to insure my tent doesn't fly away. Your tent is just like a ship sail during high winds.

Kwik Kamp is usually 2 to 3 weeks behind in shipping aluminum and galvanized steel wall tent frames because Kwik Kamp is a national brand.

The steel Hunter internal tent frame can be normally shipped within 1 week if required.

Aluminum wall tent frames are available in Lightweight Aluminum tent frame or Kwik Kamp. Lightweight Aluminum frames will noramally ship 3 to 6 days after your new tent is made or after receiving measurments from your current tent. Lightweight Aluminum frames cost less than Kwik Kamp and are not as strong, but will withstand significant snow loads.

Due to the weight of the tent roof, Kwik Kamp aluminum frame is recommended for tents 14x16 and larger due to its extra strength and minimum price difference compared to the lightweight aluminum frame. Lightweight aluminum frame is acceptable for 12x18 tents and smaller when weight of frame is important.

For individuals purchasing Montana Canvas Blend and Outfitter wall tents I recommend the Montana Canvas frames listed on my Montana Canvas webpages.

A frame for a new wall tent should be reduced 2% to allow for canvas shrinkage.

RECOMMENDATION: After receiving your frame I recommend you wet down your new tent on your frame. When wetting your tent for shrinkage, and also when it rains/snows, insure that you have guy ropes/side ropes and wall stakes on your new wall tent to insure it only shrinks the normal 1-3% shrinkage and that it shrinks evenly. Otherwise it may shrink more than 3% and unevenly and may not fit your internal frame properly. Allow some looseness in the guy ropes to allow for the roof shrinkage. If you do not allow for guy rope looseness you will weaken the seams. When the tent shrinks against a tight rope, the shrinkage will cause great pressure/strain on the tent foof seams which weaken the seams.

Click to enlarge Wall Tent Internal Frame photos

WALL TENT FRAMES

3 RAFTER WALL TENT FRAME for tents 10' - 14' long
every size available - quotes on request

*3 rafter frame is not recommended for any tent longer than 12'
S&H for Kwik Kamp FOB OR
S&H for Hunter Frame FOB MT
S&H for Lightweight Aluminum FOB WY

4 & 5 RAFTER WALL TENT FRAME - PRICES
Every size available - quotes on request
Prices are for 4 rafters unless 5 rafters specified

* 1 5/8" diameter steel frames for Kwik Kamp 18' wide tent frame

OPTIONS AVAILABLE FOR ALL FRAMES

2 piece legs for 3 rafters: $30.00
2 piece legs for 4 rafters: $40.00
2 piece legs for 5 rafters: $50.00

CORDURA FRAME BAGS with zipper and carrying handle. 5' to 8' lengths available, specify size when ordering. $30.00 each including shipping.

HUNTER AND LIGHTWEIGHT FRAMES ONLY

3 piece rafters for 3 rafter frame: $30.00
3 piece rafters for 4 rafter frame: $40.00
3 piece rafters for 5 rafter frame: $50.00

KWIK KAMP INFORMATION

• Kwik Kamp rafters and tent lengths are 2 pieces, swedged together, 3 piece rafters and tent lengths are not an option.
• Kwik Kamp tent frames ship date is normally 2-3 weeks duringe peak selling season - August - October.
• Set of two synthetic bags 3 rafter frame: $35.00
• Set of three synthetic bags 4 rafter frame: $52.00
• Set of four synthetic bags 5 rafter frame: $69.00

HUNTER FRAME INCLUDES

• 1 canvas angle bag

LIGHTWEIGHT ALUMINUM FRAME INCLUDES

• Vinyl pole bag
• Vinyl angle bag

GENERAL FRAME INFORMATION

• How To Measure your existing tent for a frame or angle kit.
• Tent frame set up instruction, information guide to set up and take down your tent and internal frame.

  If you are interested in fixed or adjustable angle kits click angle kits

Internal Frames:

• If your frame is not marked, color code your tent frame parts, i.e., legs, rafters and tent lengths at 1-2" from ends where the paint will be hidden in the angle joints.
• Clean Your Frame: If the frame has a coating that makes your hands dirty. Dirty hands results in a dirty tent.
• If you are making your own tent frame you may not want to allow any shrinkage the first cut. After you place the tent on the frame you can decide how much more you need to cut the frame down. If you cut the frame too small initially you will have to repurchase all the EMT pipe. If you are confident in your ability- allow 1% shrinkage when you cut your conduit.
• NEVER force your tent over your frame. If you do, you will weaken or tear seams and ruin your zipper.

Setting up Internal Frame & Tent:

1. Remove rocks and sticks in tent set up area.
2. Lay tent floor on ground where tent is to be located. By using a floor your tent will stay cleaner during set up and take down. I also have a cheap indoor outdoor carpet that folds like canvas that I put on top of the floor. I place the tent on the carpet as sometimes the tent can get dirty from a dusty/dirty floor.
3. Position angles and tent frame on floor in appropriate location for set up.
4. Assemble tent frame except legs on one side. By installing legs on one side of the tent frame ridge wil be 5-6' high to allow you to easily drape tent over ridge. If your tent has a tall ridgeline, like a Montana canvas tent, it is best not to install the legs as the ridgeline will be too high to drape the tent over the ridge when legs are on one side of the frame.
5. Unzip all door zippers to prevent strain on zippers.
6. Drape tent over frame. Fold the sidewalls in toward the inside of the roof to keep sidewalls off the ground.
7. In windy conditions, secure tent ridge guy ropes to tent roof end grommetts.
8. Install legs
9. Adjust your tent to the frame. Do not pull hard on your tent or you will weaken seams and zipper doors. If tent is too tight you must cut down your frame rafters or tent length as necessary. The tent should be snug on the frame but not taunt or require any forcing to make the tent fit the frame.
10. Over the lifetime of your tent your tent may continue to shrink slightly and require you to cut down the frame.
11. If your door zipper is tight you must cut down the rafters to reduce stress on the zipper.
12. Place sod cloth under floor for an air seal and to prevent any rain water from getting on top of floor. Some campers that do not have a floor put the sod cloth to the outside to direct rain water away from the tent.
13. Install stakes and guy ropes and tensioners. Stakes should be driven in at a 45º angle away from the tent. Guy ropes are at the same angle as the tent roof. If I am in an area with high winds I tie my guy ropes to trees, stumps or logs. Another method is to have two guy ropes/stakes for each eave corner.
14. If rain is possible, dig a 4-6" wide trench 2-3" deep around your tent to insure water drains away from your tent.
15. TAKING DOWN TENT. Reverse the sequence provided
16. Also clean your sod cloth before taking down the tent. The sod cloth touches the ground and will be very dirty or muddy if has rained. The dirt on the sod cloth will dirty your tent if not cleaned.
17. ALWAYS have the inside of the tent touching other parts of the inside of the tent when taking down the tent or when folding the tent for storage. The outside of your tent always has dirt, dust, tree pitch etc on it.. If the outside parts of your canvas touches the inside of the tent - your inside part of your tent will be dirty- and you will have to look at the dirt while you are in the tent.
18. The tent set up and take down procedures outlined should help keep your tent clean for years.

Tent Frame on a Platform: If you plan on placing your tent frame and tent on a platform I have some recommendations.

1. Building the platform: Do not build the platform until you receive the tent and measure it. Most tents are either smaller or larger than the tent stated dimensions.
2. Platform size: Build the platform to the same width as the frame. In this way the rain water run downs the roof over the eaves and prevents any water from puddling on the platform and coming inside the tent. Also place the tent frame flush with the back of the platform to prevent rain water from coming in from the back.
3. Rain water gap in platform: If you have a porch area and use plywood, cut a 1/2" gap in the plywood immediately in front of the tent. This gap will prevent rain water from coming in the front of the tent. If using 2x6's for the porch insure the 2x6's run parallel to the front of the tent and allow a 1/2" gap between boards immediately in front of the tent.
4. Platform sill/perimeter board: If using an internal frame, place a 2x4 along the perimeter of the tent area on the platform. Drill a hole in the sill board for the tent frame legs. In this way the wall tent frame can't move/slide on the smooth platform surface during high winds. It is also probably a good idea to caulk under the sill boards to prevent any water from coming in from the sides.
5. Sod cloth board: Place a 1/4" shim on each corner and screw/nail a 2x6 board even with the top of the platform along the back and 2 sides. Insert the sod cloth in the space between the 2x6 and platform. The sod cloth now will not go upward in raining, windy conditions preventing any wind or rain from coming in the tent.
6. Guy ropes: Install eyebolts near the bottom of the platform on the sides and back. Tie your guy ropes to the eyebolts. In this procedure, you will keep the ropes out of your way instead of having the ropes being at a 45º from your eaves.
7. Fly: Tents on platforms are usually set up for long periods of time and a fly is recommended. A fly protects the tent from destructive UV rays, provides another moisture barrier, prevents any stove sparks from burning small holes in your tent roof, and also keeps your roof clean form the tree sap, etc. The fly rests on the tent ridge. Insure there is a 3-4" space between the fly and the tent eaves This space is created by adjusting your fly ropes longer than the tent guy ropes. Space/gap is required for air circulation to dry out moisture after rain and snowstorms. If you do not have a space for air circulation your tent could develop mildew/rot on the canvas roof. When a tent has mildew/ rot it is no longer water resistant.
8. Fly Ropes: To preclude fly ropes staked out far from your tent you can build what looks like a long hitching rail parallel to each side of the tent, 1 foot away from the tent, and 6 inches higher than the eave. Tie the fly ropes to the hitching rail and you avoid long fly ropes and you also have an air space between the fly and the tent to allow for air circulation to dry any moisture on the tent roof.
9. Floor: I prefer a loose waterproof floor as it allows the use of a perimeter sill board for the frame legs. The waterproof floor is definitely necessary if there is any possibility that rain water will get inside your tent.
10. Carpet: You can use indoor/outdoor carpet and keep it dry if you have an effective rain perimeter sill board and rain gap at the front of your tent. Carpets are much more comfortable to walk on than vinyl or wood floors. However, you must have a fireproof material under your stove and 2' around your stove. Carpets are very flammable and extreme caution must be used. Use a carpet at your own risk.
11. Snowloads: Some individuals want to leave their tents up in the winter. There is no internal frame that can withstand heavy snow loads. I know outfitters that have had to leave tents in the backcountry over the winter because they had to leave quickly with their clients due to heavy snowstorms to make it back to their road base camps before the horse trails became impassable. Their tents were torn and frames destroyed from heavy snowloads when the outfitters tried to retrieve their gear in the spring. For added ridge support you can a place a support pole in the middle of the ridge for added support.
12. Hopefully, my recommendations for wall tents frames on a platform will be of some use.

Rich

AWNING , PORCH & COOKSHACK FRAMES: If you are purchasing a awning, porch or cookshack frame I recommend eave openings or eave socks on your tent end abutting the awning, porch or cookshack. By having an eave and ridge opening - you can have a 4 way angle on the end of your tent instead of the normal 3 way angle. The 4 way angle allows you to connect the tent frame directly to the awning, porch or cooshack frame. By connecting to the tent frame you save the cost of 3 angles, 2 legs and 2 rafters and the time to set up these extra frame pieces. If you are buying an attached awning, porch, or cookshack you should automatically order eave socks or eave openings. If you are buying an unattached awning, porch, cookshack the eave openings are optional.

FRAME TOUCHING YOUR WET CANVAS TENT. Sometimes a canvas tent will leak where the canvas touches the frame. If this wicking/leaking occurs the only solution is to purchase a tent fly. The fly prevents prevents any rain or snow from touching the canvas so no wicking/leaking can occur. Other benefits of a fly (1) prevents sparks from the stovepipe burning holes in your canvs roof (2) protects canvas from ultraviolet rays which deteriorates the canvas (3) keeps your tent roof clean from tree pitch.

STORING AND TRANSPORTING YOUR FRAME IS MUCH EASIER when using frame storage bags. A frame consists of many pieces that can normally be put into 2 frame bags for tents 14x16 and smaller. You will need 3 frame bags for tents larger than a 14x16.

REENACTOR FRAMES. Some reenactors do not like the time and effort to set up lodge pole frames for their tents. Some reenactors will use an internal frame or internal A frame that are only visible on the inside of the tent and then use wooden eave poles to give their tent "the reenactor look."

RECOMMENDATIONS

1. An internal wall tent frame is recommended when camping near a road. Internal frame rafters provide much more roof support than any other type of frame.
2. Color code 1 inch of the end of each internal tent frame pole that go inside the angles for easier identification and set up.
3. Most frames you order have two piece rafters and two piece tent lengths. If you have a 8' bed on your pick up, tape the 2 pieces of your tent frame lengths and rafters together. Taping together the two pieces of the tent lengths and rafters together reduces the number of poles about in half and significantly reduces tent set up and take down time.
4. Frame bags make transporting and storing tent frames much easier.
5. If you fold the tent sod cloth to the inside of the tent, place something under the legs so the legs will not wear a hole in the sod cloth. Use patio chair leg rubber or plastic caps or small 6"x6" carpet remnants works fine.
6. A tent should never fit tight on a tent frame. Never force a tent on a frame. A tight fit puts pressure on the seams and zippers and will eventually cause damage. Remember, if the door zipper is hard to zip the rafters are too long and you need to cut the rafters accordingly. The center of the eave angle brackets should be in the middle of the eave. Measure the amount that the rafter should be shortened by determining location of center of eave angle vs tent eave.
7. Some frames, especially Kwik Kamp, have a film on the metal that causes your hands to get dirty when you handle the frame. I wash the frame with soap to remove the film. You cannot remove all the Kwik Kamp film with soap. This film makes your hands dirty and you will have to clean your hands during tent setup or your dirty hands will get the tent dirty.
8. If you do not have an angle kit bag obtain one. You need to keep your angles accounted for and by your frame to insure you do not forget the angles. I have flourecsent paint markings on my angle bag to make it very noticeable so I can not forget the angles.
9. Be prepared ot cut down your frame. Tent canvas normally shrinks 1-3% after it becomes wet and dries. Tent frames are normally made 1% smaller to allow for the tent shrinkage. However, you might have a tent that shrinks the full 3% and the frame must be cut down for your tent to fit properly on the frame.
10. Insure you use guy eave ropes on your tent. Not using guy ropes will result in your tent being blown away. A tent without guy ropes being used is just like a large sail. When your tent blows away the most damage normally occurs to the frame. If you expect heavy winds, secure the ridge ends of the tent using the grommets on each ridge end.
11. Remove snow from your roof. There is no tent frame made that can withstand heavy snowloads. Sometimes outfitters have to leave their hunting area in a hurry due to unexpected heavy snows and are not able to return until the following spring. The snow load destroys their tent and frames.
12. If you expect heavy snow loads, sometimes it is wise to put a lodgepole brace in the center of your ridge beam whether you have a lodgepole or metal ridge support.
13. The frame where it touches a wet roof sometimes causes a leak. This condensation is caused by moisture wicking through the tent. The only solution if leaking occurs is to purchase a fly which will stop the moisture from wicking through the canvas.
14. When putting your tent on your frame, never put the entire rolled up tent on your ridge poles. The tremendous weight of large tents on the ridge pole, especially aluminum frames, can bend your ridge pole.
15. Metal frames are very expensive to ship. You might want to purchase an angle kit and make your own frame from 1" electrical metal conduit. You can purchase conduit at local hardware stores.
16. If you are horse or mule packing you can use ropes, lodge poles, trees near your tent to put up a frame for your tent.
17. Purchasing metal frames vary tremendously between companies and has to be a major consideration where you purchase your tent.
18. I recommend an internal frame as it provides the most roof support. Frames that do not have rafters, such as the A-frame, lodgepole and elk frame, put much more pressure and weight under snowloads on the tent ridge and eaves where guy ropes are tied to the grommets or d-rings. Tents with significant snowloads have a much higher probability of tearing or splitting when an internal frame is not used.

     

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